Christmas In San Antonio

As we gathered speed I tightened the grip on my handbag in trepidation. Glancing down, I saw that the tarmac was moving faster and faster very near our feet. Then we were off the ground and flying. An array of Christmas lights spread before us, shining like welcoming holiday beacons amid the darkness.

The River Walk lights at night, especially seen from a boat, provide a real sense of romance and atmosphere with landscaping, special lighting and rainbow-colored restaurant umbrellas.

This must be how Santa Claus feels as he glides over rooftops, I thought. But we were in a helicopter instead of a sleigh. Below us the city of San Antonio looked like a glittering blanket. We wore official head-sets that allowed us to speak to the reindeer — I mean to the pilot.

Unlike airplane rides, our takeoff was an adrenaline-pumping experience and one phenomenal introduction to the Christmas season in San Antonio. Children who get to take this journey in the night sky will recall it for a lifetime. We soared close enough to the Tower of the Americas to wave at diners in the rotating restaurant on top, even though they couldn't see us in the dark.

Before leaving home, I'd read about the extraordinary annual light show at the University of the Incarnate Word, and it was clearly visible from the sky. The campus was decorated with all white lights that radiated in the darkness.

Anyone who ventures out on foot will find plenty of holiday decorations to view at street level. The River Walk lights at night, especially seen from a boat, provide a real sense of romance and atmosphere with landscaping, special lighting and rainbow-colored restaurant umbrellas. It looks like a Disney creation, but it's real.

Red and pink poinsettias gracefully lined the small Arneson River Theatre stage, where scenes from the Sandra Bullock movie "Miss Congeniality" were filmed. The open-air theater has had a long history of performances with the stage portion on one side of the river and the seats on the other. The stonework and Christmas flowers were simple yet just the right amount of adornment against the neutral stone hues.

A stone arched bridge next to the outdoor theater and draped with strands of Christmas lights is known as Rosita's Bridge in honor of the late Rosita Fernandez. Rosita was an actress and entertainer who appeared in movies and performed on the Arneson stage for years to raise funds for charity. The bridge is a favorite photo spot year-round for visitors

Large old-growth trees give a canopy feeling to the River Walk, making it seem visitors are inside rather than out. Rather than circling the limbs, the decorators position the Christmas light strands down from the center tops of the trees. Small weights on the end of each strand keep them straight and going in the correct direction. This arrangement provided a dramatic difference from typical holiday lights.

Since I had traveled here from the blustery single-digit temperatures of Indiana, the daily highs of 60 to 70 degrees were a wonderful change. San Antonio generally has great weather for sightseeing in December, so all I needed was a light jacket for evenings. Everywhere we looked, diners were enjoying their food outdoors.

By lodging directly on the famous River Walk, I was at the heart of the action and could walk just about anyplace I wanted to go. The Hotel Contessa is one of the newer options directly on the River Walk. A mammoth eye-riveting Christmas tree graced the atrium area, and the decor throughout was cheerful yet elegant. Exposed brick in my room added an interesting touch, but a window overlooking the water was the highlight.

The ground-level restaurant, Las Ramblas, features modern Spanish cuisine and has patio seating along the water.

Before heading to the Alamo, which is just blocks away, I watched the IMAX version of the famous events that transpired in 1836. Viewing "Alamo: the Price of Freedom" beforehand made the visit to the Alamo complex easier to comprehend. When Santa Anna's troops descended on Davy Crocket we were all sniffling.

WHEN YOU GO

Dinner one evening was at Biga on the Banks, which specializes in Asian-influenced contemporary cuisine. I sat next to Texas-sized windows overlooking the river, and the passing boats decorated with brightly colored lights only served to enhance the experience. I enjoyed a rich concoction of baked cauliflower with a blend of cheeses: www.biga.com.

For authentic Mexican street food and ambience there's La Gloria near the Pearl Brewery: www.lagloriaicehouse.com.

Christmas is a wonderful time to visit San Antonio because there are so many special holiday events going on. Foodies might especially enjoy the tamale-making and cooking demonstrations held in December at the Pearl Brewery complex. For more information: www.visitsanantonio.com.

The tour I took was through Alamo Helicopter Tours from Stinson Municipal Airport: www.alamohelicoptertours.com.

The Hotel Contessa: www.thehotelcontessa.com

- Kathryn Lemmon

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